Bon Caldo Brings Regional Italian Dining and Wood-Fired Flavors to Route 1-October 27, 2004

Virginia Hayes Reviews the Transformed Former Franco’s Space on Route 1

Writing for The Patriot Ledger restaurant column “Taste & Tell,” reviewer Virginia Hayes explored the newly opened Bon Caldo at 1381 Route 1 in Norwood, noting that diners closing their eyes will feel transported straight to Italy. Transforming the space formerly occupied by Franco’s, the restaurant features an understated elegance both inside and out, highlighted by soft beige and brown tones, crisp ecru linens, and a fieldstone fireplace gracing the main dining room.

However, the decor also boasts an eccentric flair, including a splashy mural on the far wall depicting a nightclub scene of dramatic figures that Hayes quipped “looks like it was done by Modigliani on mushrooms.”

The kitchen is led by executive chef Vincent Cosgrove, a 1988 graduate of Johnson & Wales University and a seasoned culinary lifer who started working in kitchens at age 13. Cosgrove’s extensive career spans the United States—from Nantucket to Napa—alongside international stints in Australia and Argentina. His deep passion for regional cooking shapes a menu designed to represent each of Italy’s 20 regions, with a strong emphasis on wood-grilled preparations.

Standout Regional Dishes and Culinary Highlights

Hayes and her dining companions sampled a variety of regional Italian specialties, praising several dishes while noting minor missteps in kitchen execution:

• Creamy Polenta ($15): Topped with sautéed wild mushrooms, evoking memories of ski trips to the Trentino region.
• Grilled Eggplant App ($8): Stuffed with cheeses and topped with fresh tomato and basil sauce, transporting diners instantly to Palermo.
• Wild Mussels ($9): A Ligurian starter featuring mussels in a rosemary pesto lobster broth with spicy sausage, leeks, and slivered garlic, served in a hinged, covered bowl resembling a giant teaball.
• Fritto Misto ($8): A lightly fried assortment of fresh fish, calamari, and pickled vegetables; Hayes suggested it would have been enhanced with a dipping sauce.
• Braised Short Ribs ($22): Served with roasted root vegetables and polenta in a rich wine sauce sweetened subtly by the vegetables, providing ideal comfort on an autumn evening.
• Pan-Seared Shrimp ($21): Plump, plentiful shrimp sautéed with parsley and garlic, deglazed with Limoncello, and served over grilled Tuscan bread. (A request for plain pasta on the side resulted in the kitchen sending gemelli in tomato sauce instead.)
• Four-Cheese Ravioli with Lobster ($25): Featuring handmade pasta and half of a wood-grilled lobster in an herbed lobster broth, though the sharp bite of the blue cheese slightly overpowered the other cheeses.

Wines, Elaborate Desserts, and Lunch Service

Bon Caldo features a thoughtfully curated wine list emphasizing reputable Italian vineyards, with selections available by the glass—including a Zenato Pinot Grigio ($9) and a Monte d’Abruzzo Montepulciano ($7).

Desserts proved elaborate, with highlights including:

• Cannoli ($7): Described as an outstanding version.
• Sautéed Bananas in Vin Santo ($8): Served with vanilla ice cream and fig compote inside a delicate cookie cup, praised as a “real winner” combining warm and cold textures.

In addition to dinner service, Bon Caldo offers lunch featuring an abbreviated menu, authentic grilled panini, and main courses priced at roughly half the evening rates. The restaurant is handicap accessible, offers ample parking, and accepts all major credit cards.

(Note: Columnist Virginia Hayes dedicated this review to the memory of Peter Nord, teacher and friend at Scituate High School.)

Archival Note: This article has been dynamically reconstructed from the original public record print archives of the Patriot Ledger